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THE STORY OF ONE VINEYARD – OURS
LAZY RIVER, CHAPTER 1, FALL 1999,
WINTER AND SPRING 2000
    
Falling in love with a site is not the way to choose your vineyard.
Ned and I both knew that. Our real estate agent and friend Emily
Gladhart carefully showed us other properties, but Lazy River
seduced us. It was more than a vineyard site. The land had a large
farm pond, barn, granary, stream, meadows, lots of Oregon white
oak and a south facing slope that revealed views of neighboring
farms and the Coast Mountains to the west. Even in Oregon's cool
November weather the hill retained the sun's warmth.
    
We made an offer contingent on soil analysis and getting the
opinion of an expert. Amazingly, consultant Steve Price and soils
engineer Andy Gallagher could meet us the next day. Emily
contacted our neighbor Howard Hunt, owner of a small back-hoe,
to come and dig pits across the top of our future vineyard. As the
parade moved across the hill, a neighbor and now friend Streeter
Roy joined us in his pick-up, curious about what was happening.
Those cows grazing in the pasture below were his, as was the 1953
Chevy truck parked near the farm gate with its faded sign "Lazy
River Ranch" painted on the door.
    
We were quite an operation that late fall day moving
deliberately across the top, choosing this or that spot for our next
hole. Howard dug, Andy jumped in, compared soil color to samples
in his book, moistened the earth in his mouth, then clambered out.
Poking his nose down every hole was Blaze, our chocolate lab. The
first hole proved sixty inches deep of Jory, prime grape growing soil
in the Willamette. We smiled and laughed with excitement,
anticipating that all would be Jory. It wasn't. However, our south
facing section of Mt. Richmond was wonderful grape soil, mostly
Jory, some Yamhill and some Stony Ground.
    
In the spring of 2000, Wallace "Buddy" Beck of Advanced
Vineyard Systems and his manager Angel Martinez took
possession of the hill and went to work. Bill Lasslett brought in
heavy equipment to move out the ubiquitous Scotch Broom and
Himalayan blackberries, plant immigrants and scourges of Oregon
farm land. As it was revealed, the natural slope of the land felt
destined to nurture grape vines. Slowly and steadily the vineyard
took shape, the first eleven acres-Blaze O's Run, seven clones, five
root stocks, enough variation in slope, soil and plants to create a
rich, supple Pinot Noir. Well, that is what we planned and hoped.
LAZY RIVER, CHAPTER 2, FALL 2000 TO THE PRESENT
    
Coastal Oregon's reputation for rain is valid in the late fall and
winter months. However, in summer and early fall drought is often
the normal condition. We needed to irrigate, so two more experts were
engaged. Hydrologist Malia Kupalis and for added insurance, Hal
Tambling, who has witched wells in the Willamette Valley for many
years. Malia studied the land's sub terranean geology and chose three
potential well sites. They were checked out by Hal, who furnished
Ned and me with our own dowsing rods. We three concentrated,
asking the water spirits for the guidance. Hal queried, how much
water did we want, 50 gallons a minute? He asked again. Number
one quality? How deep did we think we'd drill? As we walked to site
three, the rods moved energetically. Hal told us we would have 44
gallons a minute, drill 430 feet deep and have number one
quality water the best on a scale of one to ten. He was off slightly;
the water quality was number two. Our stripling plants surrounded
by the opaque plastic grow tubes would have drip irrigation.
    
Plants, posts, irrigation, finally, our hill definitely had the look
of a vineyard. That fall the Famille Neuville block was planted,
again Pinot Noir.
    
The rest of our Oregon story is a whirlwind, so much
accomplished, additional acres in Pinot Noir with one in Pinot
Gris and two in Riesling. An equipment shed, crew house and
patio on top were the first structures. The turkey granary was
moved over a future barrel storage room and remodeled to be an
office for the vineyard. A second equipment shed took form
across from the farm pond. Streeter Roy's calves wintered in the
old barn and pastured a few miles away in the summer. Yet a
valued part of Lazy River, he cuts the hay in our meadows for
animal feed; we use the manure for compost.
LAZY RIVER, CHAPTER 3, THE WINERY,
THE CARLTON WINEMAKERS STUDIO
    
We were seated at the picnic table in the crew shed one
winter day in 2001 eating home-made bean soup and drinking
wine out of water glasses. The fire in the Jotel stove gave steady
heat. It was raining. We were entertaining a visitor and fine
winemaker, Eric Hamacher. As we talked, the outline of a
business took form. Eric needed a winery; we needed a
winemaker. Ned was a contractor with grapes; Eric was a
winemaker seeking expertise in construction. In their 2000
session the Oregon State Legislature passed a landmark bill
allowing individual wineries to share a facility. Until then,
many winemakers were vagabonds, moving from one winery to
another as space allowed. The Studio facility meant Eric and
other winemakers could have a home with state of the art
equipment designed especially to be
shared by a number of small wineries, a
base for a year or for ten. As far as we
knew it would be the first such facility
in the United States. He strongly felt
other winemakers would be interested.
We became partners-Eric, his wife Luisa
Ponzi, Ned and I. The project began.
    
After visiting property throughout
the Willamette Valley, land was
purchased on the north side of Carlton,
Oregon, a small town with a center
square, turn of the last century brick
buildings, a river front park and several
other wineries located in town and the
surrounding countryside. Wishing
to use the environment wisely, we
worked with consultant Scott Lewis to
understand and adopt LEED specifications, in anticipation
of silver certification. In order to accommodate multiple
winemakers at harvest, our facility required very efficient
production equipment and flexible barrel storage. Joe Chauncey of
Boxwood did the formal design based
on Eric's concepts of the necessary ebb
and flow, which Ned had blocked out
guided by the slope of the site. Wine
made here would gravity flow. It would
be made in small fermenters. It would be handcrafted.
The Carlton Winemakers Studio opened in the fall of 2002 with
seven wineries in residence. In it
are seven barrels of Lazy River
Vineyard Pinot Noir. And yes, it is
supple, delicate, and distinctive.
Kirsten Wedin Lumpkin
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